Kirby Neumann-Rea: An insider's guide to plying Wine Country's back roads

Kirby Neumann-Rea photos##Scenic view looking toward the Coast Range from Roots Wine Co. on Northeast Woodland Loop Road east of Yamhill.

Kirby Neumann-Rea photos##A rustic barn adds to the rural flavor below Colene Clemens Vineyards on Northeast Dopp Road outside Newberg.

About the writer: Former News-Register managing editor Kirby Neumann-Rea is driving for OLI in his spare time. He splits the new duty with visits to breweries and basketball courts, and with writing Burn the Ax Handle, his Substack.com newsletter.

Avidity first.

Such a sentiment is never wrong. However, in this case, Avidity is a winery just east of Newberg.

A fine destination among many, it’s a specific example of a general lesson I learned the first time out in my part-time gig delivering the Oregon Wine Press, a monthly publication of Oregon Lithoprint Inc., the News-Register’s parent company.

Call what follows “Lessons from the Oregon Wine Press route.” Albeit drawn from delivering in the wine areas north of Carlton and west of Newberg, safety reminders are also in order in the AVAs of McMinnville, the Eola Hills and any other where cars ply narrow, winding vineyard roads.

Driving the route confirmed the already-understood truth that this is truly one gorgeous vineyard, field and forest region. There is so much benefit beyond the Pinot Noirs, Rieslings and Zinfandels.

For example, the friendliest winery cat is Otis, at Compris near Newberg. Local quilts adorn Cana’s Feast in Carlton, and there’s a genuine ghost story associated with Argyle in Dundee.

But the purpose here is more, shall we say, driven.

Plenty of winery access roads — both public and private — are rutted, narrow and unconducive to fast speeds. It’s true any time of year, because wine country has 12-month appeal, with Memorial Day the next high-focus time with events, special tastings and the kickoff of the wine-touring peak months of May through October.

The happy irony is that the scenery is so gorgeous, you will want to slow down just to take it in. The designated driver — and any wine tour needs one — gets to enjoy the awesome scenery.

Here are more Wine Country road lessons:

• Ribbon Ridge wineries hand out information about contacting the Yamhill County Public Works Department about fixing the road’s elephant-skin patches and cavernous potholes. Pending any improvements, it’s best to take it easy on that narrow, intensely scenic road.

• Multiple wineries are connected by scenic Woodland Loop Road west of Yamhill. The narrow, serpentine road climbs and wends its way along a steep ridge with views of Mount Hood to the northeast, then downhill along a forested ravine. However, where potholes are the issue on Ribbon Ridge, on Woodland it’s rugged asphalt that often hews unnervingly close to the ravine edge.

n It’s a fact that many wineries are situated beside private homes, adding to the need for respect in many forms, foremost among them restrained driving speeds as you travel up and back.

As the sign reads on Hillside Drive near Newberg: “Speed = Dust/Be Kind, Go Slow.” On the flip side, it offers a hearty “Thank you.”

• Another driving note: caution signs that carry the profile of a tractor.

Farm vehicles also ply these roads, and they must travel at reduced speeds. At any time, there could be a slow-moving tractor just around that next curve.

Think you need 10 minutes to go three or four miles to the next winery on your list? Make it 15 — or maybe 20.

The view to the Coast Range is so clear, you can practically feel the ocean mist. Take your time. Soak it in.

Now, as an example of wine touring strategy, back to Avidity Winery and the paved, well-traveled section of Highway 99W just east of Newberg.

Avidity is tucked up in a unique location, in the far northeast corner of Yamhill County.

You might spot Rex Hill first, but stay on Highway 99W and head to Avidity first, as there is no left turn allowed when leaving Rex Hill. You have to take a right and head back toward Newberg, gateway to the rest of Yamhill County’s vineyard splendor.

Here’s one plan for appreciating local winemakers: See how many, like Rex Hill and Avidity, are just a few miles apart, if not mere yards, and take advantage for a compact, manageable but still varied experience.

They might sit next door to each other, or just across the road. The driving can be part of the adventure, but sometimes it might seem the fewer miles, the better.

The next day, you can choose another set clustered similarly. Examples abound.

The overall lesson, for locals as well as visitors, is to study the freely available winery maps, including those found in the printed pages of the Oregon Wine Press and the digital pages at willamettewines.com.

Learn the lay of the roads as best you can. And be sure to treat your designated driver to a fine lunch.